How to Plant and Grow Potatoes: A Complete Guide

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Growing your own potatoes is so rewarding. There’s something special about digging up those hidden gems at harvest time, especially when they range in beautiful hues of red, purple, gold, and brown. Learn how to plant potatoes and grow an abundance with this complete guide.

a closeup of a potato plant with the potatoes exposed below the soi line

We use our homegrown potatoes almost daily whether they are mashed, baked, or made into french fries. Potatoes are not only a versatile kitchen staple but also one of the easiest and most rewarding crops for beginning gardeners.

With years of experience cultivating my favorite potato varieties—Dark Red Norland, Grand Duke, Huckleberry Gold, Purple Viking, and Russet Norkotah—I’ve learned the best practices for planting, tending, and storing this easy to grow root vegetable.

This guide will walk you through every step of the process, ensuring a good crop and a pantry full of potatoes that can last all year.

Choosing the Right Potato Varieties

The first step to a successful potato harvest is choosing the right varieties. Each type of potato is suited to specific climates, growing conditions, and culinary uses. Potatoes can be categorized based on the time it takes them to reach maturity. Planting several varieties can space out your harvest window and provide fresh potatoes for the kitchen throughout the extended harvest window.

  • Early potatoes: These mature quickly, and are perfect for fresh eating as baby potatoes. Early potatoes are a great way to get a head start on the season. Examples: Dark Red Norland, Irish Cobbler, Red Norland, Caribe, King Harry, and Grand Duke.
  • Second earlies: Slightly slower-growing, these produce medium-sized tubers with a creamy texture. Examples: Maris Peer, Potato Ratte, Jazzy, Huckleberry Gold, and Charlotte.
  • Maincrop potatoes: These take the longest to mature but yield good results for long-term storage. Examples: King Edward, Golden Wonder, Valor, Maris Piper, Huckleberry Gold, and Russet Norkotah.

If you are a beginner, I recommend starting with early or second early potatoes, as they’re less prone to diseases like potato blight and provide quicker rewards.

a closeup of purple viking potatoes

Preparing the Seed Potatoes

While it may be tempting to plant leftover potatoes from the grocery store, it’s not recommended. Store-bought potatoes may carry diseases or be treated with chemicals that prevent sprouting.

For best results, purchase certified seed potatoes from seed companies or garden centers. My local grocery store also sells certified seed potatoes in the spring. Seed potatoes are specially grown to ensure a healthy crop and they are not sprayed with chemicals to prevent sprouting.

How to Prepare Seed Potatoes

  1. Inspect your seed potatoes. If they are large, using a clean knife, cut them into smaller pieces, ensuring each piece has at least one or two green sprouts or “eyes.” I usually cut larger potatoes in half. You don’t want your pieces to be too small.
  2. Allow the cut pieces to sit in a cool, well-ventilated spot for 12-24 hours to develop a callus over the cut surface. This step isn’t totally necessary, but it can reduce the risk of rot after planting.
  3. Plant any cut potato pieces cut side down for best results.
a shallow trench in a garden with potato seeds laying in the trench

When and Where to Plant Potatoes

The best time to plant potatoes is in early spring, about 2-3 weeks before your last frost date. In warmer regions, you can plant in late winter. For gardeners in cooler areas, it is best to wait until the soil warms up to at least 45°F and preferably 50°F.

Potatoes thrive in full sun, so pick a spot in your garden with lots of sunlight.

Well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter will help your potato plants thrive and be productive. If your garden has heavy clay soil, you can plant your potatoes in a shallow trench (4-5 inches) and hill with compost or potting soil.

If your soil is less than ideal, you can also consider planting in a raised bed or large container with good drainage. Ensure your planting site is free of standing water, as too much moisture can lead to rot or fungal issues.

Planting Potatoes

Potatoes have special planting requirements. For best results, follow these steps:

  1. Prepare the soil: Work compost or well-rotted manure into your soil to improve fertility and water retention. Aim for slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
  2. Dig holes or trenches: Create furrows about 6-8 inches deep and space them 24-36 inches apart.
  3. Plant the seed potatoes: Place each piece at the bottom of the furrow with the eyes facing upward, spacing them 12 inches apart.
  4. Cover with soil: Add 3-4 inches of soil over the potatoes, leaving room for additional soil as the plants grow.

In small gardens or urban settings, planting in containers is a great alternative. Choose a pot or grow bag with drainage holes, fill it with fertile soil, and plant the seed potatoes 4 inches deep. As the plants grow, keep adding soil to cover the stems and leaves.

closeup of newly emerged potato plants with their first leaves

The Importance of Hilling Potatoes

Hilling is a critical part of growing potatoes. The hilling process helps to protect the developing tubers, encourages higher yields, and improves drainage.

As potato plants grow, tubers develop along the buried stems. Without proper hilling, these tubers can become exposed to sunlight. When potatoes are exposed to sunlight they turn green. Green potatoes are unsuitable for eating.

When to Hill

Start hilling your potatoes when the plants are about 6-8 inches tall and have formed their first leaves. This typically occurs 3-4 weeks after planting. Repeat the hilling process every 2-3 weeks throughout the growing season. You can stop hilling when the plants start flowering.

How Much to Hill

When hilling, aim to cover about two-thirds of the plant’s height, leaving the green tops and 2-3 inches of the plant exposed. The potato plant will continue to grow vertically after hilling.

Avoid burying the entire plant, as this can stunt its growth. By hilling over time throughout the growing season, you provide space for tubers to form without overwhelming the plant.

closeup of a potato row in a garden hilled with compost

Materials for Hilling

You can use a variety of materials for hilling, each with its own advantages:

  • Soil (Traditional Method)
    Using loose soil from around the base of the plants is the most common hilling method. Ensure the soil is well-drained and free of rocks that could damage the tubers. This method provides good insulation and protects the tubers from light.
  • Compost
    Hilling with nutrient-rich compost is an excellent way to feed your plants while also protecting the tubers. This method works particularly well in raised beds or areas with poor soil quality, as it adds organic material directly to the growing area. This is the method I use because I have heavy clay soil.
  • Straw, Hay, or Grass Clippings
    For gardeners in wet weather or warmer regions, straw, hay, or grass clippings can be a great hilling material. These materials allow for better soil water retention while preventing excessive moisture that might lead to rot.
    • These materials are lightweight and easy to manage, but they may need to be replenished during the season. It’s important to add enough material to block out all the sunlight and prevent green potatoes.
  • Mixed Materials
    A combination of soil and compost or soil and straw can offer the best of both worlds. This approach adds organic material to the soil, increases nutrients available to the potato plants, and blocks out sunlight preventing green potatoes.

How to Hill Potatoes

  1. Gather Material: Whether using soil, compost, straw or grass clippings, have your materials ready before you begin.
  2. Pull Material Around Plants: Using a hoe, shovel, or your hands, gently pull your chosen material around the plants, starting from the soil surface.
  3. Shape the Hill: Create a mound that is 6-8 inches tall, ensuring no tubers or roots are exposed.
  4. Repeat: As the plants grow taller, add more material in layers. Each addition should raise the mound by a few inches, eventually forming a mound about a foot high.

Hilling provides a strong foundation for tuber growth, protects against light and pests, and can even help with flea beetles and weeds by smothering them. Whether you’re working in small gardens or on a larger scale, consistent hilling is the best way to ensure healthy and productive potato plants.

Watering Potato Plants

Proper watering is essential for healthy potato growth and to avoid issues like rot or potato blight. Potato plants need a balance of consistent moisture and good drainage to produce high yields.

How Much Water?

Potatoes thrive with 1-2 inches of water per week, including rainfall. In dry weather, ensure the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Too much moisture can lead to diseases, while too little can stunt tuber growth.

The best way to check soil moisture is to stick your fingers in the soil and see if it feels dry or wet. If it’s completely dry, it’s time to water.

When to Water

  • Early Growth: Keep the soil lightly moist after planting, especially during the first 2-3 weeks when the potatoes are starting to grow.
  • During Tuber Development: The most critical time for watering is when the plants are flowering, as this is when tubers are forming. Potatoes need enough water to grow larger.
  • Late Growing Season: Reduce watering slightly once the tops of the plants start to yellow and die back. Excess water at this stage can lead to rotting tubers. Reducing water at this stage also encourages the potato skins to thicken and protect the potatoes from damage.

Watering Tips

  • Water early in the morning to give the potato leaves time to dry. This will reduce the risk of diseases like blight.
  • Use a drip irrigation system or soaker hose to deliver moisture directly to the soil. This prevents wet foliage and reduces risk of pest and disease damage.
  • For raised beds or large containers, check moisture levels frequently since these setups dry out faster. Also ensure containers have drain holes.

Weeding and Mulching Potato Plants

Weeding and mulching go hand-in-hand to keep your potato plants healthy. Weeds compete for nutrients and water. Mulch helps suppress weed growth, retains soil moisture, and blocks sunlight from your growing potatoes.

a potato plant mulched and hilled with grass clippings

Weeding Potato Plants

  • Start weeding early in the season, before the first leaves fully develop. Young potato plants are vulnerable to competition.
  • Hand-pull weeds to avoid disturbing the roots and small tubers developing below the surface.
  • Weed regularly but gently to prevent damaging the shallow potato root systems.

Mulching Potato Plants

Adding mulch is one of the best ways to reduce the need for constant weeding while also maintaining consistent soil moisture. Here’s how to use mulch effectively:

  • When to Mulch: Apply mulch after hilling, when plants are about 6 inches tall.
  • Materials for Mulch: Straw, hay, or grass clippings work well. These organic materials will break down over time and improve your soil.
  • How Much Mulch? Apply a layer about 2-4 inches thick around the base of the plants after hilling.

Benefits of Mulching

  • Temperature Control: Mulch insulates the soil, keeping it cooler in summer and warmer during cooler months.
  • Moisture Retention: Mulch reduces evaporation, so the soil stays moist longer even in hot conditions.
  • Preventing Green Potatoes: A thick mulch layer also prevents sunlight from reaching exposed tubers, reducing the risk of green potatoes.

Regular weeding and mulching not only save time but also create optimal growing conditions, ensuring a good crop of potatoes. Read more about the benefits of mulching here.

Common Pests and Diseases

Like all crops, potatoes can face challenges from pests and diseases. Here are a few to watch for:

  • Flea beetles: These tiny pests chew holes in potato leaves, potentially stunting growth. Use row covers or organic sprays to control them.
  • Potato blight: A common fungal disease in wet weather, it causes dark spots on leaves and tubers. To prevent blight, practice crop rotation, space plants for good airflow, and water at the base.
  • Green potatoes: Exposure to sunlight can cause tubers to turn green and produce solanine, a toxic compound. Proper hilling prevents this issue.

Harvesting Potatoes

Harvesting is the most exciting part of growing potatoes. When to harvest depends on the type of potato, and your intended use in the kitchen.

  • New potatoes: These small, tender tubers can be harvested about 10 weeks after planting, usually in early summer, once the plants flower.
  • Mature potatoes: For larger storage tubers, wait until the plants’ foliage has died back completely in late summer or early fall.

Use a garden fork or shovel to loosen the soil around the plant and gently lift the tubers. Be careful to avoid poking or cutting them. Place the potatoes in a cardboard box. Do not clean the dirt off of the potatoes before storage! They will store better if you leave some dirt on them.

a cardboard fruit box filled with russet potatoes that are still covered in dirt

Curing and Storing Potatoes

Proper storage begins with curing. Lay the uncleaned potatoes in a dark, dry area with high humidity (around 85%) for a couple of weeks. This toughens the skins and prepares the potatoes for long-term storage. An unfinished basement is ideal for curing potatoes.

Once cured, store your uncleaned potatoes in a cool, frost-free place at 45-50°F. Use breathable containers like burlap sacks, wooden crates, or cardboard boxes, and keep them in the dark to prevent sprouting. Avoid storing potatoes near apples or other fruits that release ethylene gas, which can speed up spoilage.

An extra refrigerator is a great place to store potatoes for the long term. Just make sure the temperature in the refrigerator is at the optimum range.

Check potatoes in storage every week to make sure none of them are rotting or sprouting. Remove any potatoes that show signs of rot immediately.

Growing Potatoes in Small Spaces

If space is limited, don’t worry. You can still enjoy growing potatoes in small gardens or containers. Compact varieties like salad potatoes thrive in large containers or raised beds. Just ensure the container has enough depth (at least 12 inches) and add good light, fertile soil. Make sure you check soil moisture regularly as containers can dry out faster than an in ground garden.

a closeup of red and purple potatoes

Anyone Can Grow Potatoes

Potatoes are a versatile, rewarding crop that can suit nearly every garden style, from sprawling garden beds to compact containers. By choosing the right potato varieties, preparing your soil, and following the steps outlined in this guide, you can enjoy good yields of these delicious homegrown potatoes.

Whether you’re growing for storage or savoring freshly dug new potatoes, cultivating your own potatoes is a rewarding gardening adventure.

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A closeup of a potato plant with potatoes exposed below the soil level and text overlay that says how to plant and grow potatoes eastforkgrowing.com

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